Sanibel and Captiva Islands Have a Serene Side

Sanibel and Captiva islands.

Ah, say those words with me again.

Sanibel and Captiva islands.

What images come to mind?

Sun. Sand. Shells.

Got it.

The unwritten rules of travel writing require me to put sun, sand and shells high up in any story about these two popular islands west of Fort Myers.

Sanibel and Captiva islands - this photo is the beach at the north end of Captiva. Photo by Lucy Tobias
Beach at the north end of Captiva Island. Photo by Lucy Tobias.

Here you go. Sun and sand. This photograph is the beach at the very end of Captiva, right on the Gulf of Mexico, taken on a crystal-clear sunny day with a strong mañana vibe caressing the beach like a soft breeze.

When to leave the beach? Take the watch off. Turn off the cell phone. Maybe leave tomorrow, mañana – certainly not now, not while sifting sand between our toes and living the dream in paradise.

Sanibel and Captiva islands - a mound of shells near the Sanibel Lighthouse. Photo by Lucy Tobias
Shells accumulated near the Sanibel Lighthouse at the south end of Sanibel Island. Photo by Lucy Tobias

Shells. This is a back eddy filled with shells. I found this massive trove of shells on the beach just past the Sanibel lighthouse at the south tip of Sanibel Island.

With a laid back attitude brought on by sun, sand and shells, let’s look now at something new – the serene side of Sanibel and Captiva.

Start at Sanibel Congregational United Church of Christ, 2050 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel Island, FL 33957.  Park as close to the church buildings as possible. The seven-circuit classical labyrinth, made of two-toned pavers, can be seen from the parking lot. The labyrinth is open to the public.

There is an arbor at the far end of the labyrinth. Walk to this point. It is the start of the walk. Stand still. Visualize putting down all your baggage before you begin your walk. Take a few deep breaths. Begin. One foot at a time.

labyrinth at Sanibel Congregational United Church of Christ. Photo by Lucy Tobias
Labyrinth at Sanibel Congregational United Church of Christ. Photo by Lucy Tobias

Your mind immediately goes into rest mode. Feet and doing the walking. No need to worry about the destination. One path to the center the same path on the way out. The curves are U turns, rather like the journey of life, we are going in one direction then things change, another direction yet all the while progressing towards the center.

There is no right or wrong way to traverse a labyrinth. Dance, sing stop and sit along the way, skip, walk, meander. In the center I like to turn to all four compass points – north, south, east and west – and speak my gratitude out loud.

The journey back is like a reentry into the world. Take your time. Listen to the nearby fountain. For your next serene visit, exit the church parking lot, turn right onto Sanibel-Captiva Road and continue eleven miles north to visit the Captiva Chapel by the Sea nestled under palms, sea grapes and gumbo limbos. The address is 11580 Chapin Lane, Captiva Island, FL.

On the road to Captiva, I saw a first for me – a yellow road sign that reads:

 “Low flying owls next two miles.”
I am not making this up.

Of course, I kept one eye on the sky one eye on the road. No owls but maybe you will see them.

Originally built as a school in 1903 the Captiva Chapel by the Sea holds interdenominational services on Sundays at 11 a.m. outdoors (masks required and social distancing) from November 18, 2020 through April 25, 2021.

The church is open during the day for visitors.

Sanibel and Captiva islands - inside the Captiva Chapel by the Sea. Photo by Lucy Tobias
Inside the Captiva Chapel by the Sea. Photo by Lucy Tobias.

Step inside and feel instantly calm. Benches are painted sea foam green. Plain walls, a simple alter and light filled windows resonate with a call to relax.

I headed for a bench and sat. And sat. And sat. Sigh. Wonderful.

Nearby is a historic cemetery where every grave has at least one or two shells on the gravestone. One grave is completely surrounded by shells.

The Captiva School & Chapel by the Sea Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

On the way back along Sanibel-Captiva Road I stopped at In the Garden – R.S. Walsh Landscaping, 38899 Sanibel Captiva Road.

Sanibel and Captiva islands a smiling buddha at In the Garden Photo by Lucy Tobias
A smiling Buddha at In the Garden on Sanibel. Photo by Lucy Tobias

A smiling Buddha made a serene transition from labyrinths and chapels to garden pathways beautifully landscaped with plants and outdoor living ideas.  It feels like being in a botanical garden that caters to native and tropical trees, butterflies and hummingbirds. A well-stocked nursery is augmented with knowledgeable staff.

Sanibel and Captival Islands a walkway at In the Garden. Photo by Lucy Tobias.
Along a walkway at In the Garden on Sanibel. photo by Lucy Tobias.

Hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

To get started before you arrive watch a virtual tour of their garden center on their Website at https://rswalsh.com/garden-center/

As I was leaving, I commented on the garden’s beauty.  The staff person on duty said he considered it an honor to come to work there every day! 

Sanibel and Captiva Islands – planning ahead

Be advised if you’ve been here before that the causeway to the islands, cost $6, used to take cash. Now it is cashless. Sun Pass can be read as you drive by the closed booth and there is a sign saying they will bill you (not sure how that works).

Make the Sanibel & Captiva Islands Chamber of Commerce at 1159 Causeway Blvd. (on the right shortly after crossing the causeway) the first stop. Open every day of the year and they have restrooms.

 Do pick up their booklet called The Islands of Sanibel + Captiva, loaded with information on places to stay, eat, play, shop, walk along with natural areas plus a helpful fold out map of the islands.

Sea Aster Gallery shop

Signs are posted on the roadways saying masks are mandatory.

While cars are the dominant transportation bikes are not far behind. Rentals are easy to find. I saw hardcore bicyclists in spandex colors on a paceline and many families cruising along wide sidewalks in bikes of all sizes and speeds. A handy reference here for bike paths.

Be advised all beaches are pay and park.

Known internationally for outstanding winter birding, JN Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge has a visitor and education center (free, open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) and an easy to access Wildlife Drive. The Drive opens at 7 a.m. but closing hours vary by the month. See Website above.

Sanibel and Captiva Islands - white pelicans along WIldlife Drive. Photo by Lucy Tobias
White pelicans gathered together at low tide. Seen along Wildlife Drive, Ding Darling, Sanibel. Photo by Lucy Tobias

Admission to Wildlife Drive is $10 per vehicle, $1 per pedestrian and $1 per bicycle. Check the tides before going. Low tide makes wading birds crowd together to fish the dwindling pools and thus, better photographs.

Here are white pelicans at low tide.

Note: The Wildlife Drive is closed on Fridays.

Address: 1 Wildlife Drive, Sanibel Island.

Right next to In the Garden is the Clinic for the Rehabilitation of Wildlife (CROW). While hospital tours and wildlife walks are suspended due to COVID-19 the Visitor Education Center is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from January 1 through July 31 and Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from August 1 through December 31.

Admission is $12 per person ages 13 and over, $7 per person ages 4-12 and under the age of 3 admitted free. Closed on holidays (check website above).

These are suggestions. The Chamber’s booklet has oh, a zillion ideas of places to go and things to do.

Come to Sanibel and Captiva islands for sun, sand and shells. Experience the serene side. Stay longer and fill your yen for a piece of paradise.

©2021 Lucy Tobias all rights reserved.