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Paddle, Float and Be Free

Just the thought of getting in and out of a kayak seemed daunting to Eileen Hoppert of Oak Run in Ocala.

Kayaks from Marion County Parks & Recreation ready for launch at KP Hole in Dunnellon

Then her book club read “Twenty Wishes” by Debbie Macomber and a friend suggested that Eileen make a list of five wishes. Still she didn’t feel brave enough to put kayaking in writing.

Along came a program called Kayak 101 put on by the Marion County Parks & Recreation Department. She took that class with a friend and that put a paddle in her hands.

“I got brave enough,” Eileen says. “It was easier doing it with a friend.”

Eileen Hoppert of Oak Run ready to go kayaking on Rainbow River in Dunnellon

She’s paddling now! The day I met Eileen at KP Hole in Dunnellon a group led by Cathy Norris, recreation manager for Marion County Parks & Recreation Department, was getting ready for a kayak outing on the Rainbow River. Eileen was smiling.

She executed a perfect kayak entrance – stand slightly sideways, then rear end down into the seat, swing legs over the side. A volunteer pushed her kayak into the water and she was off.

Jim, a volunteer with Marion County Parks and Recreation, does the kayak entrance

“Remember everything I taught you,” Norris said as Eileen started paddling on the river. The sky was blue, cloudless. The sun was shining. Sea grasses swayed underwater. Perfect kayak weather.

If you have the slightest twinge of nature deficit disorder, because you haven’t been out in a while, summer doldrums got to you, or like Eileen you are not sure if you can do this, now is the time to get the cure, get with a friend or family and get out on the water.

Canoes for rent at KP Hole in Dunnellon

Kayaking, canoeing, floating down a river on a tube all have amazing restorative powers – you float, paddle, laze along past Florida with some of the wildness still attached to the shoreline.

Tubers lauch themselves to float downstream on the Rainbow River

Cormorants sit on tree limbs with wings spread, drying them out so they’ll fly again. Anhingas pop up in front of your kayak, underwater swimmers with their own agenda.

sea grasses near the dock at KP Hole in Dunnellon

Turtles sun themselves on fallen logs. An alligator is spotted in the marshes. A great blue heron stares at the water’s surface, standing still, hoping that fish will forget it is there and swim close.

It is a journey, a workout without pressure, a relief from landlocked concerns. Your watercraft doesn’t carry much. That is a good thing – left behind are the day timers, watches, and the full laundry basket that will wait while you float along, de-stress and wonder what took you so long to be here now.

Floating down the Rainbow River near Dunnellon, Florida

There is a river or lake near you. And there is sea kayaking. The steward of Florida’s Water Trails is the Florida Paddling Trails Association
This is a good site to find the water possibilities near you.

Some trips are a rite of passage, part of the real Florida experience every visitor or resident should do. Like tubing down the Ichetucknee River It is a must do, six miles of natural Florida inside Ichetucknee Springs State Park.
Located near Fort White, tubing is very popular between May and early September.

At KP Hole in Dunnellon tubing and shuttle services run April 1 through September 30th. Canoes and kayaks can be rented. Check all canoe/kayak Web sites for particulars – such as having a driver’s license and credit card and fees.

Organized trips are great fun. Adventure Outpost in High Springs does canoe and kayak trips. Get on Lars Andersen’s free “wanta go” e mail list for upcoming adventures.

Lars writes awesome descriptions of the ecology, history and lore of each trip. Phone (386) 454-0611 or e mail mailto:riverguide2000@yahoo.com

Naturally, there are festivals. The Hidden Coast Paddling Festival happens Sept. 18-25 and starts in Cedar Key in conjunction with their Kayak Fishing Tournament. You can download (free) from the Festival website a book with day trips on the Big Bend Coast from Cedar Key to the Aucilla River.

The Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival happens Oct. 29-Nov.7, 2010. This Blueway is a 190-mile marked paddling trail on Southwest Florida.

For a good read, see Herb Hiller’s article for VISIT FLORIDA on paddling pursuits.

Fall is here, enjoy it on the water. See you there.

Eileen Hoppert launching kayak for ride on the Rainbow River

©2010 Lucy Beebe Tobias Web site: www.LucyTobias.com

Dog Days of Summer Are Here

Dog days of summer are here. There is only one cure – grab your leash and water bowl and head for the beach!

Obi, a Welsh Corgi, and I did just that, winding our way down A1A south of St. Augustine, looking for a dog-friendly beach recommended by Brenda Flynn and her Scottish Terrier Pearl.

“It is a well kept secret, not even the locals know it is here,” said Flynn who lives in Ormond Beach. So secret we passed right by the street sign in Palm Coast for the turn because, silly me, I thought that there would be a dog beach sign. Hey, then it wouldn’t be a secret.

The street is named Jungle Hut Road. About half way down you cross a parkway that goes to Ginn Hammock Beach and Hammock Beach Vacation Rentals. Just stay on Jungle Hut until it ends. Surprise! Here is a public entrance to the beach with a paved parking lot, restroom, showers and a dune walkover. Very nice.

Dog signs at Ginn Hammock Beach, Palm Coast Florida

Dog signs at Ginn Hammock Beach, Palm Coast Florida

Leashed dogs are welcome. Clean up after your dog. Brenda is a regular here. She tells me low tide is the best time and in the evening, you are likely to see a dog coming down the steps from a waterfront home – carrying his leash in his mouth, his master trotting faithfully behind him.

walk over to beach

Obi at the top of the walkover stairs to the beach

Obi, urban dog that he is, quickly decided walking on hot sand was not his thing so naturally I carried him to the dune walkover. It is so nice have a dog small enough to pick up and sit in my lap. The sand by the water was much cooler.

Pearl thought the waves were wonderful and she liked Obi a lot, charging at him in the dog version of “let’s play!” He gave me that shocked look “Mom, the women are chasing me” and ran the other way. He got his feet wet at my encouragement but water wasn’t his thing.

We moved on to the Golden Lion Café in Flagler Beach. Dogs can sit outside the rail. Brenda, Per Hans and I sat at a table right next to the rail.

Lunch with dogs at Golden Lion Cafe, Flager Beach. Photo by Per Hans

The fish taco was excellent, so were the onion rings. How sweet to smell salt air and look across the street to blue sky, white clouds and an ocean still clean, not yet spoiled by the oil spill.

Finding dog friendly beaches and dog parks in Florida is a challenge. Some are, some are not. Best to know ahead of time before venturing out. One good source is Florida Pets. Get on their E-mail list for regular updates on everything from places to play, restaurants that accept dogs and places to stay. Their motto: “They’re part of the family, so take them along!”

Waiting for lunch at Golden Lion Cafe in Flagler Beach. Photo by Per Hans

Another good resource is the Dog Lover’s Companion Guide to Florida by Sally Deneen and Robert McClure. This book is in its fourth edition.

Some towns get two paws up for being dog friendly. Apalachicola comes to mind; here people even bring their dogs to work. Sanford puts out the welcome mat, or at least the water bowls. We found several water bowls at the Farmer’s Market on Saturday.

dog water bowl in Sanford, Florida

Dog water bowl at Farmer's Market in Sanford, Florida

Do you know of more dog friendly places? Let me know in the “comment” section and we’ll post the places. Your best four-legged friend will be happy with new places to explore.

Lucy Beebe Tobias is the author ‘of “50 Great Walks in Florida” and a freelance Florida environmental writer.

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Take a Boat Ride in History’s Wake

Breakfast at the Old Spanish Sugar Mill Restaurant inside DeLeon Springs State Park is an event. The tables have built in griddles. Our waitress showed us the button to turn on the griddle (gee, that was the hard part, it was on a table leg, we never would have found it).

As the griddle warmed, she brought coffee, big pitchers of home-milled pancake batters and the sides we’d chosen – blueberries and eggs. We began pouring batter, laughing, enjoying the moment, watching for the telltale bubbles that mean it is time to flip those pancakes.

flipping pancakes

Barbara Fitos flipping pancakes

Our table faced the windows. We looked out at DeLeon Springs headspring with its walled off swimming area and a waterfall spilling over boulders into Spring Garden Lake. This tranquil scene, with 19 million gallons of water a day coming from an underground cavern, empties its crystal clear water into Spring Garden Creek, then onto Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge, the St. Johns River and eventually this water flows into the Atlantic Ocean. What a journey! And it begins here.

sugar mill and waterfall

sugar mill and waterfall


Across the way sat M.V Acuera, a 28-seat pontoon boat with a canvas roof cover. On the sides it says Fountain of Youth ECO/History Tours. Our plan: first, enjoy breakfast, and then take a boat trip. It worked but not quite the way we’d envisioned.

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Tours leave at 10 a.m., 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m. Tickets are $12. The narrated boat ride lasts 50 minutes, going down Spring Garden Creek and into Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge. Reservations can be made at Sugar Mill or call the boat tour (386)-837-5537. To know more, visit the eco-tour’s Website.

BUT, and it is a big “but”, there must be a minimum of eight passengers for a tour to leave the dock. We were just two people ready for the 11 a.m. Apparently no one else wanted to leave the griddles.

So off we went to nearby DeLand, walking around downtown, visiting galleries, shops and museums. Captain Frank assured us he had 12 signed up for the 1 p.m. We returned (your park entrance receipt gets you back in all day) and boarded the M/V Acuera.

Captain Frank tells us Native Americans used to visit the springs 6,000 years ago. That was long before pancakes. In the early 1800′s Major Joseph Woodruff and his wife Jan bought 2,000 acres, grew sugar cane and indigo.

“He was the first to bring slaves to Florida,” Frank says.

There on the right – an anhinga and a great blue heron. On the left, snowy egrets and moor hens. An osprey sits high in a tree.

osprey in a tree

osprey in a tree

It is late fall, some color on the trees, most are bare.
“Come earlier in the fall for a brilliant change of color in the fall bright sunshine,” says Frank.

We see white ibis, lots of them, they were the sacred bird of Egypt.

Colonel Orlando Rees bought it in 1831 and made the earthen dam to power a sugar mill. Naturalist John James Audubon visited Rees in 1832 and Rees took him on a boat trip along the waterways, just like we are doing now. This is a great way to see birds. As we smoothly glide along, bird sighting are frequent. We also ask about plants.

Captain Frank points out smooth beggar tick – an unusual name – for yellow flowers blossoming by the water’s edge.

“This is old Florida, the way it looked for centuries, this is what the Spanish saw, what the Indians saw,” Frank says.

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River views

River views

In the reeds an immature lack-crowned night heron and a female cormorant. We see an immature little blue heron – they are born white then turn blue in one to two years.

Alligators, big ones, sun themselves on the banks. Capt. Frank says they have 3,000 pounds of pressure in their jaws. We take his word for it.

A tri-colored heron is spotted in the shallows. Overhead a red-shouldered hawk flies by. A cooter turtle suns itself on a log.

We are floating in the Refuge now, some 20,000 acres of preserved land and water.

In the 1800s no highways existed. “The only roads were waterways, product was shipped by water, the only way to get to market,” says Captain Frank. He waves his hand outward. “It is 126 miles by water to Jacksonville. Steamboats came in the late 1820s, that is what really settled Florida from the center out, steam boat traffic, towns developed along the rivers and people came.”

And we come today to float in history’s wake, catch a glimpse of immature yellow crowned night herons and watch a kingfisher fly by. There are moments when you just have to say: “it doesn’t get any better than this.”

Short, narrated boat trips are a great way to see authentic Florida. We loved doing breakfast and a boat trip at DeLeon Springs and we’ll be back with family and friends.

Here are more possibilities:

A boat tour on the Wakulla River at Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park located southwest of Tallahassee. Upcoming tours include a photo tour on the Wakulla River on Saturday, Feb. 6 and a Valentine’s Cruise & Dinner on Saturday, Feb. 13.

A tour boat at Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound goes up the Loxahatchee River to Trapper Nelson’s homestead and a ranger-guided tour of the homestead.

A little more adventuresome – From Fort Myers, it is a three-hour (or more) catamaran ride to Key West on the Key West Boat Shuttle. Spend the day or two, return by boat.

Since seeing birds is such a big part of a river boat trip, I recommend a good field guide, particularly the Sibley Guide to Birds.
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Pretty amazing that he illustrated every bird. I like the different views. A bird will fly overhead and all you see is the underside. Well, Sibley have those undersides.

©2009 Lucy Beebe Tobias, author of “50 Great Walks in Florida”.. All rights reserved.

Go Native One Plant at a Time

Jeff Nurge went native eight years ago. He planted native flowers, bushes and trees in an effort to attract wildlife. You can’t really tell from the front – native trees and bushes are spaced apart. It is the sides and back of the house that get your attention.
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These areas pulse with dense green foliage not unlike well, wild Florida.

Narrow paths make passing through possible. Seemingly random growth turns out to have specific lures for wildlife – a red bay, for example, has tiny flowers that bees love and the tree is a good shelter for birds.

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“I wanted to see birds, snakes, owls, butterflies,” says the Delray Beach resident. And he does. In addition he wanted to conserve water. That too is happening.

A back fence has completely disappeared, hidden under flourishing firebush.

“This is a huge butterfly attractor,” Jeff comments. “Firebush is the number one native plant. This is the first plant to start with.”

I’m startled and surprised by what it means to go native. It means forget neat and manicured. This was once a conventional yard with grass underfoot and fence to mark the property line. Now it vibrates with exuberance and yes, a touch of chaos, all for a good cause – there is only so much space and so many natives to plant and so little time.

You see our wildlife is in trouble.

“So many landscapes are loaded with exotics,” notes Jeff. “They are beautiful but they are dead zones for wildlife. They have color and texture but where are the bees, the birds, the lizards?”

Dead zones? Beauty that kills here in Florida? Sounds like a science fiction novel but no, this is the real deal.

“The bird population and butterflies are not finding the food they need – the migrating birds need to feed in Florida to migrate to South America. If they can’t find the right food, they don’t make it.”

In my back yard, a haven with water fountains and bird feeders, or so I thought, the bird numbers have been dwindling in recent years. I was hoping they got a better offer and are happy somewhere else. Now I wonder if they made it from one year to the next.

Going native turns out to be a call to action – do you want to save native wildlife? Then turn your dead zone into a native buffet and you can do it one plant at a time. Before visiting Jeff I thought my side yard would become a fruit orchard. Now it is going native.

I planted firebush along the fence line. You go, you native you. Do your thing. The butterflies will love you.

RESOURCES

• Jeff recommends several native plant nurseries in his area including Pan’s Garden in Palm Beach, Meadow Beauty Nursery and Indian Trails Native Nursery, both in Lake Worth.

• “A Gardener’s Guide to Florida’s Native Plants” (paperback) by Rufino Osorio, here is the Amazon link and it is in our bookstore on my Website.

• Jeff, who is also a Master Gardener, has turned his native passion into a consulting business. Visit his Website to know more.

Master Gardeners, an outreach program by IFAS University of Florida, may have an office near you. They can be immensely helpful, especially with micro irrigation and drought resistant plant suggestions.

Florida Native Plant Society has chapters throughout the state.

• Here is the link for University of Florida IFAS Extension section on native plants. IFAS means the Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

• Native plant nurseries will only flourish if people vote with their wallets and buy native. Here is a listing of native plant sources from Florida Gardener.

While milkweed is not a native it is the necessary larval plant for monarch butterflies. Learn more at the Live Monarch Foundation.

©2009 Lucy Beebe Tobias, all rights reserved.

Five Favorite Books for Fall

School has started. You know what that means. In the morning, after the macaroni munchkins are gone, you may even have a few minutes to yourself.

And the weather is trying to turn towards fall. Cooler days suggest that outdoor adventures are once again going to be fun.

So make yourself a cup of coffee or tea, pick up a Florida travel book, sit on the porch and dream a little. Here are some of my favorite books on Florida destinations and adventures:

p101010450 Great Walks in Florida, Lucy Beebe Tobias, University Press of Florida, 2008. No surprise here. This is a great resource. People always ask which one is my favorite walk. The truth is each one is different and I’d do them all again in a heartbeat. For fall my choices would include Chapter 14 “Stained Glass and Four Freedoms”, a walk in Madison and then, as a Bonus Point, be sure to visit O’Tooles Herb Farm outside Madison.

Take a bird walk at Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs State Wildlife Park (Ch. 19). The next one is Oct. 24 from 8 to 9:30 a.m.

Walk with Audubon at Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary in Naples (Ch. 40). Cooler weather means less bugs. And sift through the sand at Blowing Rocks Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Hobe Sound (Ch. 41). Walking on the beach in the cool of a fall morning is a delight.

 

p1010105Paddlers Guide to the Sunshine State by Sandy Huff. While some of us walk the walk, Sandy paddles the waterways. She took three years to paddle then compile 200 trips on 91 waterways. This is a tremendous resource. I love the first section where she gives tips on gear, clothing, cooking and camping. And her advice on wildlife is simple – Don’t feed them. Right on. Never encourage an alligator.

 

 

 

 

 

p1010106Payne’s Prairie: The Great Savanna: A History and Guide by Lars Andersen. Do you like good stories? Lars is one of the best storytellers I know. He presents Florida history almost as a love story and it is no secret that Lars loves Payne’s Prairie.

We went on a Payne’s Prairie canoe trip with him when the prairie was flooded. As we floated over boardwalks submerged underwater Lars told stories of Timucua, Creeks, Calusa and Seminole Indians who once lived here. We looked around expecting to see them at any moment. He makes the prairie come alive. I treasure this book.

 

 

 

p1010108The Dog Lover’s Companion to Florida: The Inside Scoop on Where to Take Your Dog by Sally Deneen and Robert McClure. My dogs love this book and it certainly opened my eyes on where I can go, and not go, with them. Maggie Dog took the authors with her all over Florida (after all, she didn’t drive). This book is updated regularly and perhaps even the fact it exists has made our canine companions more acceptable.

 

 

 

 

 

p1010107Road Biking in Florida by Rick Sapp. I’ll be the first to admit that road biking scares me. All that traffic. Alternatives like the Rails to Trails bike paths get my attention. And yet, the road is calling and there are some great rides out there plus cyclists who are working hard to find routes and make them safe.

Sapp divides routes into rambles, cruises, challenges and classics. Here in Marion County, where I live, a local bike shop takes a ramble through rolling horse country twice a week. One day I’ll be rambling with them and then looking for new challenges. This book is a good guide.

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